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THE TERMINOLOGY

As a brand that strives for perfection, creating impeccable garments is not nearly enough. Over the years, HVRMINN has invested immense effort and time to offer a limitless range of styles to an incredibly diverse clientele. In our pursuit of offering a wide range of options, while keeping creativity and quality at the forefront of our goals, we’ve released collections under various categories: ready-to-wear, made-to-order, made-to-measure, and couture. Because the fashion industry is flooded with mass production and fast-fashion companies, these terms are rarely used to describe clothing anymore, which mystifies the different processes.

∴ Yves Saint Laurent was the First Couturier to Open a Ready-to-wear Boutique in 1966 ∴

1. Ready-to-wear (RTW) or off the rack, are clothing items produced for the general market, and not for an individual. People experience the most issues with RTW products, and grapple with numerous brands before finding one that cuts garments closest to their body type. It’s not uncommon for some individuals to never find clothing that fits perfectly. Simply, RTW clothing is made for everyone, but for no one in particular. Though not prevalent in the industry, HVRMINN also provides a made-to-order (MTO) option as a way to offer a broader range of sizes for smaller and larger individuals who require sizes that are uncommon in the general market. MTO products allow clients to shop HVRMINN’s entry level garments without having to opt for custom. As the name implies, MTO items are put into production by the order, so items under this category are unavailable for immediate purchase. Because these garments require intensive hand labour, the lead time is generally four to five weeks from order date. Although RTW and MTO covers a vast range of body types, fit becomes exponentially more meticulous for tailored and structured garments like, suit jackets, trousers, and overcoats. In the case of sartorial garments like these, even a couple of centimeters difference can augment the fit on a wearer.

2. These ill fitting areas can sometimes be masked by an alterations tailor, however, a truly well fitting suit is made-to-measure (MTM) for a specific individual, with all their bodies nuances taken into consideration. This process involves observing every details like, the individual’s resting posture, asymmetrical arm lengths, knock knees, and so on. These notes are in addition to the comprehensive try-on and measuring procedure. Using the measurements and the notes, the master pattern maker/tailor is able to cut and sew fabric for the particular client, which ensures a near perfect fit. Garments that are made to one’s body is superior in every sense of the word. For MTM, clients get the choice of material: fabrics and buttons. The details of the suit, however, is not customizable by the client as a way to maintain the brand’s design sensibility.

∴ Sean Connery with his Bespoke Tailor, Anthony Sinclair, 1963 ∴

3. In tailoring, a bespoke garment entails an extra fitting that the MTM process is able to bypass through its try-on system. Instead of having a set of garments as a template for the client to try on, for bespoke, a brand new canvas shell is made for the client’s initial fitting, which is made using measurements taken during the consultation stage. After gauging the fit of the canvas shell, the master tailor makes the necessary adjustments before moving onto crafting the final product. Bespoke services are generally not offered by designer brands, instead the individual must seek out master tailors who are able to offer this service. Bespoke is an option that provides the individual full creative control over their suits design and cut, unlike MTM.

∴ A Legendary Couturier Christian Dior, Paris, 1952 ∴

4. For some uniquely individualistic clients who want to distinguish themselves from others, or have a specific vision of their outfit, a couture wardrobe is ideal. Historically, couture is associated with custom sewing and dressmaking, but has evolved into a broader term over the years; it implies a garment that’s been designed and crafted with the client’s lifestyle in mind. Couture is a virtually boundless procedure and it requires the individual to collaborate with the fashion designer. For instance, Hubert de Givenchy designed an entirely couture wardrobe for Audrey Hepburn for the entire duration of her career, and more. She once said that her outfits gave her a sense of protection and confidence, knowing that she looked right at all times; she declared him to be a ‘creator of personality’. HVRMINN offers a couture line strictly for non-tailored garments, for men who wish to build a truly personalized collection of clothing, that not only fit their bodies perfectly, but also their personas. Couture is the peak of luxury that allows the client to work one on one with the brand’s creative director, in order to fully realize their dream wardrobe from sketch to final product.

- Paul "PCK" Kang

∴ Image Credit ∴
https://museeyslparis.com/en/biography/saint-laurent-rive-gauche
https://www.masonandsons.com/blogs/intelligence/dressed-to-kill
https://www.britannica.com/biography/christian-dior-french-designer


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