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For many of us, shopping off the rack is entirely conventional, and it offers everything that appeals to the consumer: instant gratification and affordability. The most widely discussed problem with ready-to-wear (RTW) is that it’s been designed for no one and also for everyone. In other words, the garments are standardized in attempts to fit a myriad of body types that vary so vastly in shape, weight, and height. Though RTW is an adequate and reasonable approach for casual clothing, it becomes a dilemma in the sartorial arena. Why? Jackets and trousers - with exceptions - are traditionally structured, lined, and padded; and the fabrics are not designed to be stretchy or pliable. If you take an "atypical" body and pair it with a suit, the result are guaranteed to be awkward. The beauty of made-to-measure is that it takes into consideration all of the minor nuances of the wearer’s body, from their weight, height, and shape, to their natural stance, posture, and bone structure (e.g., asymmetrical arms, slouched postures, sloped shoulder, etc). For instance, a made-to-measure option for clients like Efosa is critical; who towers at nearly 6’6” with a hyper-muscular build; it’s impossible to find anything RTW that fits him decently, if at all.

∴ Efosa Osamwonyi's Fitting with Our Creative Director HVRMINN ∴

Custom tailors and brands have scrutinized the fit-issue of RTW, however, few people have tackled the uniformity regarding mass produced clothing. RTW requires the wearer to conform to size, but it also demands that they conform to the preset styles commanded by market trends. This fosters uniformity and discourages individuals from taking risks - how can they? And while there are many who prefer to camouflage with the crowd, there are others who detest being alike. Anatole is one of those keen individuals who is visibly distinct. He is incredibly particular in his taste and is meticulous about the details of his garments. He’s worked with HVRMINN to design dozens of outfits suited to his lifestyle and specific occasions. As a brand, it is invigorating to work with clients who strive to stand out.

∴ Our VIP Anatole in His Black Three Piece Suit with African Buffalo Horn Buttons ∴

The made-to-measure clientele at HVRMINN has become very diverse over the years, dealing with men and women from the industries of art, law, and finance; and so, the goal with each client is different. Our client, Jason, is a managing partner at a law firm and he requires a customized wardrobe that reflects his career. Many of his suits have been made in essential four season weights and patterns, but he’s also constructed conspicuous suits for the social aspects of his life.

∴ Jason Ou Jia's Fitting with HVRMINN ∴

The dilemma boils down to the age-old debate of quality versus quantity - building a wardrobe and developing taste requires time and patience, so practicing moderation and slowing down the process of shopping will help one build a greater sense of personal style.

∴ Anatole & HVRMINN ∴

The quality of HVRMINN’s made-to-measure tailoring is unparalleled - unlike other brands, clients are given the rare opportunity to work one-on-one with the creative director, who not only conducts the fitting, but also guides the client throughout the design process. This is truly a unique feature, as most brands pass on this important duty to made-to-measure specialists or a salesman. This passing of responsibility often leads to a degraded experience and inferior suit. In the end, the dilemmas surrounding a quality suit boil down to the age-old debate of quality versus quantity - building a wardrobe and developing taste requires time and patience. A simple way to begin is to practice moderation and self-control when looking for new pieces.

Written by Paul "PCK" Kang